Sigiriya

Sigiriya rises almost 200 metres from the plains of the Cultural Triangle, a column of rust-coloured rock that King Kashyapa turned into a royal citadel in the fifth century. The approach alone is remarkable: symmetrical water gardens, boulder shrines and terraced paths lead to the painted maidens of the fresco gallery, the polished Mirror Wall and the colossal stone paws of the Lion Gate, before a final staircase brings you to the ruined palace on the summit.

A day here begins early. Most guests set off shortly after the gates open, when the air is still cool and the forest below glows in the first light. By mid-morning you are back on level ground, ready for a slow breakfast, a swim, or a rest on a shaded veranda. Late afternoon is for a village walk, a bullock-cart ride along the paddy bunds, or the gentler climb of neighbouring Pidurangala Rock, which offers the finest view of Sigiriya itself as the sun sets.

The surrounding countryside is generous too. Minneriya and Kaudulla national parks are close by, and in the drier months elephants often gather on the grasslands around their reservoirs, a sight best enjoyed from a private jeep in the late afternoon. Where seasonal flights operate, a hot-air balloon ride over the rock at dawn is unforgettable.

Sigiriya is also the natural base for the Cultural Triangle. The cave temples of Dambulla are a short drive away, the ancient capital of Polonnaruwa makes an easy day trip, and Kandy and Anuradhapura are within comfortable reach. We often suggest two nights here, so that the climb, the wildlife and the countryside each have their own unhurried moment.